Lunar Cycles and Surf Forecasting

The Surprising Connection between Lunar Cycles, Tides, and Surf Forecasting

Imagine you're planning a surf session at one of Australia's most famous breaks, Snapper Rocks. The forecast is clear: 3 feet of swell expected today, with a moderate barometric pressure and plenty of sunshine. But as the day progresses, a subtle shift in the tidal cycle could impact your surf conditions.

On this particular day, we're looking at a full moon in Scorpio, which typically influences coastal waters during the night of its phase. The moon's gravitational pull causes the ocean to bulge out, creating high tides and lower low tides. And that's exactly what happened here.

As I paddled out early, I noticed the water was already starting to rise. The first few waves were small, but as the sun began to set, they grew bigger and more powerful. By around 6 pm, I had caught a solid 5-foot wave, which was perfect for my shortboard.

But here's where things got interesting. As I rode the wave back out to shore, I noticed that it was being influenced by the lunar cycle. The high tide of around 10:30 am had cleared out most of the bigger waves, leaving only a few smaller ones to compete for space.

Meanwhile, the low tide of around 4 pm had exposed a new area of sand and rocks, which was attracting some hungry sea creatures. As I paddled back in, I saw schools of fish swimming beneath the surface, and even caught a glimpse of a dolphin breaching the water's surface.

Now, you might be thinking that this is just a simple example of lunar tidal influences on surf conditions. But bear with me – this effect isn't just limited to Snapper Rocks. Research has shown that many popular surf breaks around the world are influenced by lunar cycles and gravitational effects.

In fact, studies have found that the timing of high tides and low tides can be used to predict wave patterns and even forecast weather conditions. For example, some research suggests that the gravitational pull of the moon can cause waves to behave erratically, making it harder to predict surf conditions with accuracy.

But why is this important? Well, by understanding these complex interactions between lunar cycles, tidal patterns, and swell directions, surf forecasters like myself can provide more accurate predictions and forecasts. This allows surfers to plan their days around the best waves, rather than just relying on chance.

As we head into the new moon phase next week, expect fewer high tides and lower lows. Meanwhile, the lunar cycle will continue to influence coastal waters during the night of this full moon. And as you paddle out or read your surf forecast app, keep an eye out for these subtle cues – they might just give you a better chance of catching some epic waves.

In conclusion, the relationship between lunar cycles, tides, and swell patterns is more complex than we often give it credit for. By understanding these interactions, we can gain valuable insights into the ocean's behavior and improve our ability to predict surf conditions. So next time you're out in the lineup, keep an eye on the moon – it might just be influencing your waves. Lunar Cycles, Tides, and Surf Forecasting: A Comparison of Full Moon Influences

Lunar Phase	Tidal Patterns	Swell Directions
New Moon	Increased tidal range, reduced high tides	High tides, higher swells
Waxing Crescent	Tidal range decreases, lower high tides	Lower tides, smaller swells
First Quarter	Tidal range increases, moderate highs and lows	Moderate tides, balanced swell direction
Full Moon	Lunar tidal influence on coastal waters	Higher tides, lower low tides (during night)
Waning Gibbous	Tidal range decreases, lower high tides	Lower tides, smaller swells

Tidal Patterns

• Increased tidal range during new moon due to increased gravitational pull
• Decreased tidal range during waxing crescent as tidal range decreases
• Moderate tidal ranges during first quarter and full moon due to balanced gravitational influences

Swell Directions

• Higher swells during new moon due to higher lunar tidal influence
• Lower swells during waxing crescent and first quarter due to lower tidal ranges
• Balanced swell direction during full moon, with high tides during night affecting low tide conditions